Tuesday, 25 August 2026

 

Start: Hotel in Kazan (RU) 10:45

Arrival: Hotel in Kazan (RU) 16:30

 

Total: 120 km

 

 

Other than Kazan itself, the two biggest highlights in Tatarstan for history enthusiasts are the old capital of the Volga Bulgars, Bolgar, and the island fortress of Sviyazhsk. As Bolgar lies a bit out of the way (says the person who just drove 3800 km in two weeks) we decided to drop it and just do Sviyazhsk on this trip.

 

 

After a late breakfast, we set out. Annoyingly, the GPS signal was badly scrambled again, so we had to do it the old-fashioned way and rely on our eyes and map reading skills. All went well until we missed the entrance to the dual carriageway outside Kazan. No biggie, it just meant we got to see the little village of Novaya Tura into the bargain. We drove in at one end, out the other, and were finally on the M7 to Sviyazhsk.

 

In no time, the well-maintained highway took us to our destination. The landscape along the way consisted of waterways, inlets, reed islands and dammed crossings. Quite beautiful to behold, but we were under no illusion what it meant: this was the empire of the gnats and flies, where the komary, the Russian mosquitoes, reign supreme. And we had no bug spray with us. Ah well, we would survive it.

 

 

Five kilometres before Sviyazhsk, a paid parking lot came into view. Hardly any cars there. We drove on, hoping for a parking spot closer by. The white walls and churches came into view and there, right at the foot of the fortress, was a huge free parking lot. Who would pay for parking if you could have it for free much closer by? "Maybe one just has to pay for the shuttle bus", my sister surmised. Maybe. We did not need to find out, because we were able to secure one of the last three available spaces. Yay! And now on to conquer the island of Ivan the Terrible.

 

 

Sviyazhsk made history in 1554, when the first Russian tsar Ivan Grozny set out to conquer the Kazan Khanate. After all his attempts were rebuffed by the Tatars, he floated a complete disassembled fortress down the river to this island, reassembled the fortress on site and used the stronghold to conquer the khanate from the inside out.

 

Today, the site houses two monasteries, churches, museums and innumerable souvenir shops, cafés as well as pelmeny and chak-chak stands. It's well equipped to welcome thousands of tourists. Luckily, on a Tuesday in late August, the place was not too crowded. If only the sun did not burn down quite so brightly. I scratched my neck. A komar bite. Great. I huddled deeper into my cardigan. Where was yesterday's Kazan rain when you needed it?

 

We walked through a "Thoughtful garden" with citations from Lao Tse to Lev Tolstoy. But it was just too hot. So we heeded our own words of wisdom: get out of the sun before you get burnt too badly.

 

We found shelter in a wonderful small white church. Dark panelling, gold coloured frescos and icons, such a tranquil haven of peace. Unfortunately, it was not permitted to take pictures inside. We had the place for ourselves and just soaked in the atmosphere. When we left, the custodian approached us, curious where we were from. He knew a few words in German, we chatted a bit and he wished us a good trip. Such a nice encounter! For me, the Church of Saint Constantine and Helena was the highlight of the day. Such a serene ambience, and such a friendly guardian!

 

 

Walking on, we next found shelter from the sun on a terrace where I had a refreshing kvas. Mmh, I haven't had one in years. Homemade lemonades, mors and kvas - with so many delicious beverages, one is really spoiled for choice in Russia.

 

Now for the monasteries. We first entered the John the Baptist convent. The Cathedral of the Joy of All Who Sorrow is truly impressive, with a soaring cupola admirably painted with God Father surrounded by angels. I'm always in awe how the painters manage to get the perspective right for the viewers from below. And yep, that person in the pink scarf with the back turned, that's me. :)

 

 

The island of Sviyazhsk is not that large, about one kilometre in diametre. The perfect size for a leisurely afternoon stroll. We admired the view over the scenic reed lagoons of the rivers Sviyazh and Shuka, shooed off more than one komar, Sonia tried to pat a cat lazing in the sun (the cat didn't want to be bothered though) and eventually we made our way back to the entrance.

 

 

I had read somewhere that one of the highlights in Sviyazhsk was an archangel with a horse's head. I couldn't remember what archangel and I wasn't sure whether he was supposed to hold a cut-off horse's head in his hands, or whether he himself actually had a head like a horse. Both versions seemed equally odd. There was probably a perfectly good explanation for it, but I couldn't think of one. Meanwhile we climbed down into the cell of a hermit that now housed an exhibition of contemporary paintings, and finally stood in front of the last remaining church: the Assumption Cathedral of the Holy Dormition Monastery. Would we find a horseheaded angel in there?

 

 

Sadly, we would never find out because the church was closed to visitors for the next 45 minutes. We decided that not even a Hinduesque angel was worth such a wait. My feet were aching, I was hungry and we still had an hour-long drive back to Kazan. Any chimerical creatures, angelic or otherwise, would have to make do without us.

 

Back at the hotel, when we were once more connected to the world-wide web, we found out that the church mural actually depicts Saint Christopher with a horse's head. Something to do with horses symbolizing the cavalry. Makes sense in a military fortress like Sviyazhsk. I mean, as far as animal heads on saints make sense.

 

 

We had enjoyed our day trip to Sviyazhsk, but we were happy to return to our hotel in Kazan, with all our stuff already littered around the room. No frantic search for new lodgings, no hauling of heavy luggage, no dealings in a language where I barely guessed the gist of things. When you're on the road for more than a week or two, staying at the same hotel for a few days in a row is definitely a godsent.

 

 

After a shower, a rest and some preparations for the next day, we felt ready to face the world again. One more time food in Bauman Street? Splendid idea! By now we knew the way by heart - straight up the street past Mathilde and the befountained canal, make a right and there you are. After nightfall, the street is bustling with visitors. Kids running around, musicians playing, people sitting on terraces having dinner. We made a beeline for Gudini. When famished, go where you know the food will be good.

 

And it was just as delicious as two days ago. We ate and watched the people. Here the view from Gudini onto one of the many beautifully restored houses in Kazan. Our waiter - an enthusiastic young student with very good English skills - was interested in our travels. It does feel quite extraordinary sitting on a veranda in Kazan on a warm summer night, thinking that we will not be back home for many weeks. Back home, I wasn't 100% sure how I would feel about that. Now I know - I love it.